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Food & Wine · Pairing

Three Bottles That Cover the Whole Thanksgiving Table

The Domaine LeSeurre Team6 min read

Thanksgiving is the hardest meal of the year to pair, because everything lands on the plate at once: lean turkey, stuffing rich with butter, sweet potatoes, a tart cranberry sauce. No single wine is perfect with all of that, but three well-chosen bottles come close.

In the Finger Lakes, harvest ends a few weeks before Thanksgiving, so the holiday arrives just after our busiest stretch of the year. Over time we've come to see the meal as a buffet of textures more than a menu, and looking at it that way makes the wine much easier to choose.

What is the best wine for Thanksgiving?

Look for good acidity, low tannin, and moderate alcohol. A wine built that way can handle lean turkey, rich gravy, and tart cranberry sauce at the same time. Between them, a dry or off-dry Riesling, a light red like Pinot Noir, and a sparkling wine cover almost every dish on the table.

The Thanksgiving plate mixes nearly every structure a cook can produce. The gravy and stuffing bring fat, the sweet potatoes and cranberry sauce bring sugar, the cranberries add acidity, and there's salt in everything. A wine with big tannin or high alcohol fights at least half of that, while a wine with good acidity and a light touch gets along with most of it.

Underneath, it's the same method we explain in our food and wine pairing guide: match the weight of the wine to the weight of the food, then balance acidity against fat and sugar against sugar.

What wine goes with turkey?

Turkey is lean and mild, so it pairs best with low-tannin wines that have good acidity. Pinot Noir is the classic red, because its light structure leaves the meat juicy. On the white side, a dry Riesling or an unoaked Chardonnay works. Heavy, tannic reds tend to make lean white meat feel dry.

Tannin softens against protein and fat, and turkey breast has plenty of protein but very little fat. With a firm, tannic red, the grip of the wine has nothing to hold on to, and the meat ends up feeling drier than it is. A low-tannin red or a white with some acidity lets the turkey taste like turkey.

Dark meat and gravy bring more fat, which leaves room for a red with a little more structure. That's why our Pinot Noir Barrel Select often ends up on the table: its time in oak gives it some body, while the grape keeps the tannin on the light side. Our Pinot Noir food pairing guide goes further.

A wine and food pairing set out at Domaine LeSeurre
We read a holiday plate one dish at a time, looking at its fat, sugar, salt, and acidity.

How do you pair wine with cranberry sauce and sweet potatoes?

Cranberry sauce is tart and sweet at once, and sweet potatoes are sweet, especially with brown sugar or marshmallows on top. Both make a bone-dry wine feel sour and thin. A wine with a little residual sugar and good acidity, such as a semi-dry Riesling, holds its shape next to them.

This is the dish that ruins most Thanksgiving pairings. Sugar in the food pushes a wine's acidity forward, so a dry wine next to sugared yams suddenly feels harsh. The rule we give our guests is short enough to remember at the stove: the wine should be at least as sweet as the food.

Our Semi Dry Riesling was made for this. Fermentation stops before all the grape sugar is gone, so a touch stays in the bottle, and the cool Finger Lakes climate keeps the acidity high. The sugar takes care of the sweet potatoes and the acidity takes care of the cranberries. If the sweet-or-dry question on a Riesling label puzzles you, our article on whether Riesling is sweet or dry explains how the winemaker decides.

Which three bottles cover the whole Thanksgiving table?

Open a sparkling wine for the appetizers and anything fried or salty, an off-dry Riesling for the sweet and tart sides, and a light, low-tannin red for the turkey and gravy. Guests move between the three as their plate changes. If pie is coming, a late-harvest wine makes a good fourth bottle.

  1. Sparkling wine to start. Bubbles and acidity handle salty snacks, cheese, and anything fried, and they wake everyone up before a long meal. Our méthode champenoise sparkling wines, mostly reserved for Wine Club members, are the ones we pour here.
  2. An off-dry white. Our Semi Dry Riesling takes care of the cranberry sauce, the sweet potatoes, and the green bean casserole.
  3. A light red for the turkey, dark meat, and stuffing, either Pinot Noir Barrel Select or our Cabernet Franc. The Cabernet Franc has a bit more grip, so it suits a table that leans on sausage stuffing or ham.
  4. For dessert, if you like, our Vendanges Tardives, a late-harvest Riesling aged in barrel, next to pumpkin or pecan pie, which needs a wine at least as sweet as the pie.

A dry rosé can stand in for either the white or the red. Our Rosé Cabernet Franc Cuvée Classique Dry has the acidity of a white and a little of the structure of a red, which keeps the peace at a mixed table.

If a guest asks why these three

  • Turkey is lean, and heavy tannin would dry it out.
  • Cranberry sauce is sweet and tart, so the wine brings a little sugar and plenty of acidity.
  • The bubbles are there for the salty, fried, and cheesy starters.
  • With three bottles open, everyone can move between them.

How much wine do you need for Thanksgiving?

A standard 750 ml bottle pours about five glasses. For a long holiday meal, many hosts plan on half a bottle per adult who drinks, and a little more if the evening runs late. Opening two or three styles at once helps, since guests end up tasting a little of each.

Our guide to how many glasses are in a bottle of wine does the math in more detail. Serve the red slightly cool, the whites cold but short of icy, and the sparkling wine well chilled; our article on wine serving temperature has the details. Bottles that survive the evening keep for a few days once opened, as we explain in how long wine lasts after opening.

Where can you try these pairings before the holiday?

If you'd like to test the method before cooking for twelve, our Signature Wine & Food Pairing is a seated experience that follows the seasons, so in the fall there's fall food on the plate. It's the easiest way to feel the difference between a wine that fights a dish and one that helps it. You can browse our wines to plan your own table, and the Wine Club ships six bottles three times a year if you want the sparkling wine on hand.

Taste a seasonal pairing with us before the holidays.

Common questions about Thanksgiving wine

Is red or white wine better for Thanksgiving?

Both work, and serving both is easiest. A white with good acidity and a touch of sugar handles the sweet and tart sides, while a light, low-tannin red handles the turkey, the dark meat, and the gravy.

What wine goes with turkey and stuffing?

A light red like Pinot Noir, or a dry to off-dry Riesling. Stuffing adds fat and salt, which acidity cuts through, and low tannin keeps the lean turkey from feeling dry.

Should I serve sparkling wine at Thanksgiving?

Yes. Bubbles and acidity suit salty appetizers, cheese, and fried dishes, and a sparkling wine keeps working through the main meal alongside the turkey and the sides.

Written by

The Domaine LeSeurre Team

Céline & Sébastien LeSeurre and the team at Domaine LeSeurre — a family winery on Keuka Lake, in Hammondsport, New York. French roots, Finger Lakes soul.